It’s 6AM, the air has a breeze that sends a refreshing blast of clean through the car as I head to the shore with the windows down. Surfline says the break is around 4-ft, water is 68 degrees and offshore winds at a stand still. Pulling up to the shore line I sit and simply look out at the endless ocean over the pacific. There are only 5 or 6 people out on either side of the pier as the sun is starting to make its mark on the day.
For any water man – this time and this experience actually has a name. Dawn Patrol.
It’s one of two aspects in a 24 hour period where you can get some great waves before the day takes over.
Today marks a special day. It would be the 125th birthday for the father of modern surfing. The Duke played a special part in my time at the beach. Having the opportunity to live in both Huntington Beach and Maui, surfing and water life have been a big part of my personal constitution.
Happy birthday to Duke Kahanamoku.
Known as the Ambassador of Aloha, Kahanamoku traveled the world, bringing surfing to the likes of California, Australia and New Zealand over his lifetime. Aug. 24 marks what would’ve been Kahanamoku’s 125th birthday — he passed away in 1968.
On his native Hawaii, Kahanamoku was known for much more than just riding waves. He first built his reputation as a swimming champion, winning five Olympic medals over the course of his career. His success also enabled him to raise the profile of Hawaii’s true passion of surfing.
Kahanamoku was also elected the sheriff of his home county 13 times and starred in over a dozen movies. Most importantly, he is credited with helping the Hawaiian islands achieve statehood in 1959. Credit Time Magazine
A great piece on Duke from Big Island Television Below
Cheers & Aloha!
Kolby I The Healthy Primate